Forearm stretches are one of the most commonly used self-treatment techniques among rock climbers. It would be difficult to be at the climbing gym for more than one hour and not see someone stretching their wrist and forearms. But how effective is this technique for helping people with wrist pain?
Research has shown time and time again that static stretching of muscles does NOT improve muscle length long term. The true mechanism of stretching is that your muscles become less sensitivity to being stretched, rather than altering the structure of the muscle to change the muscle’s length. Although it has not been thoroughly studied in the forearms, many studies show that static stretching prior to exercise can decrease the rate of force production in muscles. This can decrease performance in climbing, particularly during dynamic movements, by reducing how quickly your finger muscles can contraction when grabbing the handhold.
Most importantly, for those with wrist pain and stiffness, stretching forearm muscles does little to target the wrist joint. The best way to mobilize the wrist joint for pain relief is to use specific mobilization techniques that target the ligaments and connective tissue surrounding the joint. The exercises below are designed to utilize the arthrokinematics of the wrist joint to enhance the benefit of the wrist mobilization exercise.
Mend Recommendation: instead of doing a static stretch for your finger and forearm muscles try the exercises in the video below which are more effective at reducing pain and improving mobility for the wrist. If you’re having continued wrist pain while climbing or problems with stiffness or limited mobility in your wrist while mantling, schedule a free consultation with the rock climbing specialist physical therapists at Mend in Boulder, Colorado.
5 exercises better than wrist stretching to help with wrist pain:
1. Wrist mobilization with movement using resistance band, on a table.
-Place the band around the base of the hand (below the wrist joint), then rock forward, using your body weight to enhance the stretch.
-2 sets of 20 repetitions, 1 or 2 times per day.
2. Wrist mobilization with movement using resistance band, on a table.
-Place the band around the base of the hand (below the wrist joint), then rock forward, using your body weight to enhance the stretch.
-2 sets of 20 repetitions, 1 time per day.
3. Wrist extension stretch with dumbbell using “muscle energy technique”
-Holding a dumbbell, lower your wrist into extension until it reaches the end of the range of motion. Hold for 5-10 seconds, then curl the dumbbell back upward, assisting with the other hand as needed, before returning to the stretch. Intermittent contraction of the wrist flexor muscles allows them to be lengthened more effectively.
-2 sets or 10 reps with a 5-10 second hold, 1 time per day.
4. Wrist traction and flexion mobilization
-Using your opposite hand, pull direction outward along the line of the forearm to place traction on the wrist. While maintaining traction, pull the wrist into flexion until you reach the end of the range of motion.
-1 sets of 10 reps with a 5-10 second hold. 4 times per day.
5. Wrist extension stretch on all fours using “muscle energy technique”
-Use your body weight to push downward through the wrist joint, modify your pressure as tolerated. Hold for 5-10 seconds, then push upward so your palms come off the blocks, then return to the stretch. Intermittent contraction of the wrist flexor muscles allows them to be lengthened more effectively.
-2 sets of 10 reps, 1 time per day.