Blog

Overtraining In Rock Climbing

Overtraining syndrome (OTS) is a condition that arises from an imbalance between training, recovery, and the body’s ability to adapt. In the context of rock climbing, which is a demanding sport requiring strength, endurance, and mental acuity, recognizing the signs and symptoms of OTS can help to avoid injury and setbacks in reaching goals ....

Training The Finger Extensors For Rock Climbers

Rock climbing is a challenging sport. However, training for climbing might be an even more challenging endeavor. To rock climb well requires developing strength, endurance, power, mobility, and sport specific skill. Moreover, it requires developing all of those areas for the entirety of the body due to the whole body nature of the sport. However,...

Closed Kinetic Chain: Unlocking Shoulder Pain For Climbers

Introduction Climbing is a physically demanding and exhilarating sport that requires a combination of strength, balance, coordination, and flexibility. Unfortunately, when injuries to the shoulder occur some elements of good shoulder function tend to be negatively impacted. With any good Physical Therapy program, the compromised elements are found and targeted with exercise to restore function....

Utilizing The Hangboard To Improve Your Rock Climbing

The World of Hangboard Somewhere along your jaunt down the nice wandering cobble set path of life you were unexpectedly jabbed by the climbing bug, its infectious poison penetrating all the way into your soul, leaving your mind consumed with the indomitable desire to get vertical. The only way you have found to cull the...

Why Every Rock Climber Should Strength Train

Strength training is not utilized by rock climbers enough! While many people assume that strength training is only for building muscle, showing off the biceps, and being able to campus better, there are numerous additional benefits that directly carry over into improving your climbing performance. In this article, we will explore the various benefits of...

Lumbrical strains in rock climbers: how do they happen and how they can be treated

Climbing is a demanding sport that requires exceptional grip strength and finger dexterity. Because of this, climbers are at risk of developing finger injuries, including lumbrical strains, which can significantly affect their climbing ability. In this article, we will explore the biomechanics of lumbrical strain in climbing, its etiology, and management strategies. The lumbricals are...

Ankle sprains are common but treatable for rock climbers

Ankle sprains are the most common traumatic injuries among rock climbers (Jones et al, 2016) and are one of the most common injuries in the lower quarter affecting with an estimated 2 million cases occurring each year in the U.S. These injuries most commonly occur when landing from falling or jumping off a boulder. Manual...

Which fingers get loaded the most while climbing?

The fingers undergo a tremendous amount of force while rock climbing, particularly when crimping. But which fingers take the most force? A study by Vigouroux and colleagues used a biomechanical model to analyze the forces exerted on the fingers of climbers while they were attempting to exert maximal four-finger force in a crimp grip. The...