The fingers undergo a tremendous amount of force while rock climbing, particularly when crimping. But which fingers take the most force? A study by Vigouroux and colleagues used a biomechanical model to analyze the forces exerted on the fingers of climbers while they were attempting to exert maximal four-finger force in a crimp grip. The...
Plyometrics are a type of exercise that involve explosive, high-intensity movements and are often used in sports training and rehabilitation programs for many types of overhead athletes, but not often enough for rock climbers. They can be an effective way to improve muscle power, speed, and coordination, and can be especially useful in helping athletes...
Femoroacetabular impingement (aka: FAI, hip impingement) is a common condition experienced by many rock climbers. It is characterized by pain to the front of the hip or groin, experienced when the climber moves their hip toward the end of its range of motion. The most common ways you will experience pain from hip impingement: Lifting...
The movements inherent to rock climbing can put significant stress on the meniscus. High-stepping, heel hooking, drop-knees, and planting/twisting can make the knee susceptible to meniscus tears. Both traumatic and degenerative meniscus tears are common among climbers, but there is excellent evidence showing that conservative treatment should be the first line of treatment in the...
What is the pelvic floor doing while I climb? Should I do kegels? Can I climb while pregnant? “In the end, climbing was one of the only things my body felt good doing for the entirety of my pregnancy, and I climbed throughout, enjoying my final pregnant climbing session just 12 hours before going into...
Tendon pain and injuries are very common in rock climbers because of the repetitive stress that is placed on our muscles/tendons with this sport. Tendon injuries have previously been diagnosed as tendonitis and were believed to be marked by an inflammatory process in the tissue. Our current knowledge on these injuries has been improved by...
Lateral elbow pain (aka lateral epicondylalgia, aka tennis elbow) is a very common condition experienced by rock climbers. The most common cause of lateral elbow pain is chronic degeneration of the tendons that attach at the lateral epicondyle of the elbow. These structures become painful with the repetitive stress of climbing, particularly with crimping, pinching,...
It may not seem obvious, but weakness in our hips can lead directly to shoulder pain while climbing. Because climbing requires the use of all extremities simultaneously, impairments in one region of the body almost always have a direct impact on the other extremities. One of the most common, but seldom recognized, patterns is the...
Make sure you’re incorporating shoulder strengthening into your elbow rehabilitation! The elbow is one of the most common sites for pain in rock climbers. Lateral elbow pain (tennis elbow) is a limiting condition causing pain with repetitive movements including crimping or pinching while rock climbing. This condition was previously thought to occur secondary to inflammation...
During the rehabilitation of rock climbers, many respond favorably to manual therapy techniques such as dry needling and joint mobilizations. Physical Therapy spinal and extremity joint mobilizations are slow passive movements applied to a patient’s joint surfaces. These interventions have been shown to decrease pain, improve range of motion, and increase the immediate force production...