Finger taping is used frequently among climbers. Tape is used for a variety of reasons including protecting skin, supporting finger joints and connective tissue, and to decrease finger pain while climbing. Although many climbers swear by using tape, the effects of taping are not well researched and the underlying mechanisms are poorly understood. Some researchers...
Fingers are the most commonly injured body part in climbers. Pain to the fingers can be generated by several different structures, making proper diagnosis particularly important for treatment. The most common diagnoses causing finger pain are pulley sprains, flexor tendon injuries, interphalangeal joint irritation, extensor mechanism injuries, and soft tissue injuries. Many factors affect the...
The pectoralis minor muscle is situated on the front of the chest and attaches the scapula to the rib cage. When this muscle becomes chronically tight it can pull the scapula anteriorly, creating a posture where the shoulders are rounded forward. This posture is often seen in rock climbers and tightness of the pec minor...
Shoulder strength and stability is crucial in rock climbing for both performance and injury prevention. There are many different ways to assess shoulder strength, stability and function. The findings of these assessments can give us insights into right to left imbalances and can tell us which muscle groups we need to target in a rehabilitation...
The serratus anterior muscle is located on the side of your chest and attaches your scapula to your ribs. The purpose of this muscle is to stabilize the scapula, especially during overhead movements. Its specific actions are scapular upward rotation and protraction which are important movements for many movements in rock climbing. Weakness of the...
Shoulder injuries account for approximately 17% of all climbing-related injuries, making them one of the most common reasons why people seek rock climbing therapy. The shoulder is a complex joint that takes a significant load while climbing, especially as difficulty increases. If you sustain a shoulder injury from climbing, it’s crucial to get the right...
Pain to the elbow is very common among climbers and is one of the leading causes of time away from the sport. The most likely areas of pain are to the lateral elbow or medial elbow. Keep reading to learn more about the symptoms, causes, and treatment options for elbow pain. Lateral epicondylalgia (also...
Pain from an epiphysial growth plate fracture will likely be located on the dorsal surface of the long finger as pictured.
Many abdominal strengthening exercises focus on the concentric phase of contraction. For climbers this is important, but often the abdominals have to activate eccentrically. To review: a concentric contraction occurs when a muscle creates tension while it shortens and an eccentric activation occurs when a muscle creates tension while it lengthens. Think about what your...
Joint stiffness in the thoracic spine can be a significant contributor to neck, upper back, and shoulder pain in rock climbers. The high muscle demands and repetitive pulling down movement of climbing often leads to excessive thoracic kyphosis, internally rotated shoulders, and a forward head position. If left untreated this can lead to long term...